It’s hard to say when the whole “fun socks” phenomenon started, but it officially ended on May 4, 2017. That’s the day Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau met with Irish Prime Minister Enda Kenny while wearing a conservative charcoal suit accented by a pair of Star Wars-themed socks featuring R2D2 and C-3P0. This wasn’t the first time Trudeau was photographed wearing novelty socks; his collection included patriotic maple leaves, pride-friendly rainbows, and a red motif for Chinese New Year. But his high-profile embrace of May the Fourth Be With You swag—and the string of trend pieces it sparked in Vogue, The New York Times, and other outlets of record—marked the moment the novelty sock went from funky accessory to officially cooked. Nine years later, however, after a prolonged palette cleanser of plain white and black athletic socks, stylish guys have begun to dip their toes back into the pool of colorful hosiery.
The proof was abundant at Paris Fashion Week where, despite sweltering temperatures, a rainbow of modish sock choices was on display. “You want to zig when everyone's zagging,” says Lawrence Schlossman, co-host of the menswear podcast Throwing Fits, who sported multiple pairs of bright-toned half-calfs in the French capital. “I’ve been a person who has primarily worn white socks—the white sock and loafer thing, or the white sock with a pair of proper shoes thing—but it has become so widespread that you can’t go on Instagram without immediately seeing five other guys doing the same thing.”
Thanks to style icons from JFK to Tyler, The Creator, the appeal of a black loafer with a white sock remains powerful, but for those in search of something a little more exuberant, a colorful sock can take an otherwise monochrome outfit to the next level. “I’ve always liked the look of a pop of color against a black leather shoe,” says Hypebeast editor-in-chief Madrell Stinney, who was spotted in Paris wearing a pair of red Uniqlo socks with a white MFPEN dress shirt, black shorts, and a pair of black Homies Chill lace-ups. “It’s a simple way to break up an otherwise minimal outfit. Some of my favorite loafer or derby looks pair jeans or tailored trousers with a primary-colored or pastel sock.”
Schlossman took the opportunity to pick up new pairs in red and magenta from legendary haberdasher Charvet, but for anyone who’s not going to be in Paris anytime soon (or doesn’t fancy shelling out $60 for a pair of cotton socks), he’s also had success finding bright primary colors at Ralph Lauren and Amazon. Stinney, meanwhile, leans towards gentler hues like mustard, sage green, and lilac, and buys his from Comme Si, Drake's, and the perennially stacked sock wall at Uniqlo.
For anyone looking to diversify their sock drawer, the most important thing to note is the distinction between colorful socks (solid colors only) and novelty socks (stripes, patterns, and—most egregiously—any kind of IP). Other than that, Stinney says, it’s a matter of finding a color you like and using it to create a tasteful contrast with the rest of your ensemble. More importantly, though, don’t overthink it. “Wear it how you would wear anything,” advises Schlossman. “Trends are fun, but they shouldn't make you have to go and get a whole new wardrobe, or change who you are fundamentally. I love guys trying new things, but the male mind's capacity to overcomplicate things never fails to amaze me.”